In Siem Reap coachloads of Chinese tourists (the new middle class) swarm over the temples. Jostling for best sunrise/sunset position at Angkor Wat it's quite a scene.
But not far from the madding crowd is the real Cambodia of paddy fields, farmers and fishing.
Best experiences so far- boat trip from Siem Reap to Battambang where we saw village life up close. The Phare Ponleu Selpak circus in Battambang which was probably the most feel good entertainment anywhere and waking up to this view.